סיון
- תשע״ד
The day after my brother graduated from
college, I got in his 1999 Subaru Forester and booked it out of
Claremont, California. It was about 97 degrees as I cruised down the
endless strip mall that is Rancho Cucamunga, but my sweat and
heavy breathing was from the sudden relinquished weight of family's
emotional complications that had rumbled along the entire weekend. I
was totally stoked for the chance to go on my second cross-country solo college road trip and had been planning and
fantasizing about this day for months. Two years earlier, I had packed up my
little blue Hyundai, named Fernando, and drove 3,200 miles west from
South Hadley, Massachusetts to Bellingham, Washington after my own graduation. I never wrote about that three and a half week
adventure, but it lives on in the occasional listener who asks me to
tell a story. This time, my task was to get my brother's car from Southern Cali, back "home".
A week before my his graduation,
I left my friends and community in Jerusalem where I have been
living for the last several years. When I bought the plane ticket back to the States on a cold and depressing Jerusalem night, my
pragmatic intention was to save money working for my Dad and to have
a loving and supportive (and insulated) home to sit at the computer
each night googling, "whatthefucktodo".
Essentially, moving back in with my parents for the Summer was to be
my grand finale of what has become almost a year dedicated to
"healing" from a wrenching heartbreak before Rosh Hashanah
and the struggles of emotional and financial survival alone in a new
country. On the Jewish calendar, the road trip finished off the
last week and a half of the omer count before the holiday of Shavuot,
a time that carried powerful spiritual significance; revelation, completion, rebirth, and the wheat harvest. When I logged off my computer that winter night in
Jerusalem, I stayed up by the light of a candle till dawn finishing
Jack Kerouac's, The Dharma Bums. I dreamt about Jaffy romping around in the Sierras singing mantras.
There
was a billboard of a woman and man smooching in Rancho Cucamunga that
read: "More affordable than divorce, LOTIONS & LACE"; I
could not stop smiling I loved America and freedom so much right
then. The sun blazed optimistically and the surrounding San Bernadino mountains were beautiful and foreign to me.
60 miles of strip mall later, I hit the town of Hesperia, right before heading
north on Highway 395 to Yosemite. I had spent an hour on the phone
from Jerusalem with the ranger's station trying to sneak in a
reservation for a campsite in the Valley and succeeded. My mind was
set on making it there, all 355 miles, that
night. In Hesperia, I popped out of my car, grabbed a bright red
shopping cart, jumped on the back, and rolled into Super Target. For
half an hour I rode my cart like this down those gargantuan, incandescent
aisles. I grabbed things off
the shelves without stopping - tortillas, chocolate, coconut oil,
carrots and apples. Grocery stores are excellent places to compare cultures. My entire independent adult life has been spent in Israel, so each time I return to America, it becomes stranger and stranger. Twenty meter long sections dedicated entirely to "Pancakes & Waffles" and "Pasta & Tomato Sauce". Essential American gastronomic values that I had forgotten about. This Super Target in the boonies of Southern California was an excellent observation place.
I made my purchases and after eating a quick lunch of carrots, almonds and
a Starbucks mocha frappaccino in the parking lot, I flew out of
Hesperia at 85 miles an hour into the desert. "Born to Be Wild"
came on the radio as I drove past suburban
developments, ATV parks and eventually, nothing.
With a little bit of time on the open road, I began to relax a bit more, get serious, enjoy the
sensations of no air-conditioning. I had been waiting months for
this road-trip and I sure as hell didn't want to spend it in my head.
I gorged on gorgeous red Californian cherries, and bobbed about to Mexican polka music on my broken stereo. The joshua trees, scattered sporadically on the flat, arid earth reminding me of a Dr. Suess illustrations. I dropped in and out of memories, sweet and sour. Nearly two hours later, I came to a crossroad where
I saw a funky little antique shack on the side of the road. I pulled
over for a stretch and to see what desert treasures I might find. In a matter of 15 seconds I realized that my wallet had been
left behind in a Target shopping cart.
I called Lost and Found with shaking fingers. They said nothing turned up.
The wind was strong, sand was blowing in my eyes and wind chimes
crashed in loud clanks all around me. I crouched behind the antique
shack so I could hear through my phone.
When Shauna from
Godknowswhere customer service at Bank of America got on the line, I
began to cry, "I'm in the middle of the desert, I have less than
a half of a tank of gas, my license and all of my money is gone"
choke "and I'm over fifteen hundred miles away from my
home, so I guess" choke "I'm calling to report a
lost card."
"Oh, honey"
Shauna said sweetly, "let me freeze your checking account right
away so we can make sure no money is drawn from that lost card. Once I finish this
though, you'll have to go to a Bank of America branch in person order
to reactivate your account. I'm so sorry, I hope everything works
out!"
Then I called my
mom and nearly caused her an accident on the highway. She was on her
way to LA and hadn't left California yet, meaning, I could make it
back with what gas I had and be rescued. In her voice I heard the shocked, my-child-is-going-to-die stuttering. There was 180 miles between myself and my only saving grace,
so I followed my mother's advice and made a last attempt in
Hesperia.
By the time I got
back to Target, it had been three hours since I left. I got the same
answer at the counter in person as I did over the phone. No wallet.
"But I'm stranded! I'm from Washington State on a road trip!"
I told them. They gave me nervous unfortunate faces, "I'm so
sorry, good luck ma'am."
I made my way towards the exit though
not before I had ravaged through every shopping cart I could see. I
walked slowly towards the door trying to keep my inner devastation in
balance. My grand adventure of a road trip was one big failure after
an entire year of what felt like failures. My head kept spinning:
After all this savvy travel experience I'll be branded forever as an
irresponsible airhead by my family. I won't get to go to Yosemite.
Where the hell am I going to spend Shabbos? Through blurry teary
eyes, I saw a little Mexican family approach me.
"Are you
Emily?"
I froze and
sniffled. "Yes."
"This must be
yours..." The man handed me my Steve's Packs Jerusalem Wallet
with my Ben Ish Chai charm for hatzlacha, a picture of the
Rebbe, and all my cash and cards still inside.
I burst into tears
and laughter, and reached to give this man an enormous hug.
"Actually, it
was him who found it and saw you," he pointed to the little boy
at his side. I embraced the frighten child too, and then the mother
just out of the love overflowing from me at that point. It must have looked like a scene from a Lifetime documentary. The little family smiled at me hesitantly, accepted my thanks and also wished me "Good luck".
I walked back out into the blistering parking lot, giddy, nervous, and shaken. My absent mindedness, caused by foggy day dreams and emotional baggage had thrown me off balance. After a stretch, I sat back in my seat and I told myself to focus on the road, turn off the music and breath. Thanks, God. That was a close one, I hummed to myself, genuinely grateful to the workings of Divine Providence. Though it wasn't long before a bit of cockiness crept back and decided that the
plan to make it to my Yosemite campsite was still on. It was 4:30pm.
Soon the Eastern Sierra Range shouldered the western side of the highway. As the sun began to retire, the mountains
turned purple, the ground reddish brown and the sky an illustrious
pink as the sun set across lonesome Highway 395.
The heat settled
into the earth and a cool breeze came down from the north, a high
quiet fell. I was so tired. The front of the car was green and
black from the buggy mass accumulated throughout the day.
At 10:00 pm
I consulted my navigational and realized I wouldn't get to Yosemite
till close to one in the morning and I simply couldn't keep my
eyes open much longer. In my wallet there was $50. It dawned on me then that I couldn't withdraw any cash from my card because
of my now frozen account and the nearest Bank of America branch was
125 miles past Yosemite, not far from my relative's ranch in
Calaveras County. Adding park admissions and the gas required to
make it in two days to the ranch left me with nothing extra. There
would be no motel that night. I pulled off the highway onto a dirt
road with scenes from Kerouac stories on my mind. I was at the foot
of the Sierras on a stunning open plain. I would sleep in my car
that night and watch the stars.
I knew well the
dangers of being a young woman alone in the middle of nowhere, so I
made the decision to lock my car doors in case an intruder came while
I was cooking my dinner, I could then jump into the car and lock
myself in to be safe. I slipped into my wooly long underwear, put on my headlamp and made
quesadillas, singing Chassidic niggunim to myself as the temperature
quickly dropped. The night sky was a blanket of stars. My heart
felt so relieved. From the back seat, I jumped out to get my water
bottle in the front. The door shut behind me and there I was.
Alone in the Eastern Sierras in nothing but my skinnies with
everything I owned locked inside the Subaru.
"ARE YOU FUCKING SERIOUS!"
I screamed in hysterical
laughter up to the Holy One. I sat in the dirt for a few seconds in
total confoundment as to how my life came to this point. It was
freezing, and I began to shiver. I didn't know if I could last the
night huddled in the grass. Do I try to flag someone down from the
highway in the middle of the night, or do I wait till morning? How
much better are my chances of avoiding rape and murder if I make myself hypothermic through the night hours exposed, or if I put myself out there and flag down a possibly awful surprise? I
didn't bother spending too much time lingering on the decision, and
pulled up my pants. In this time of ridiculous crises, the only line that came through was a classic quote from the Dalai Lama:
“If
you have fear of some pain or suffering, you should examine whether
there is anything you can do about it. If you can, there is no need
to worry about it; if you cannot do anything, then there is also no
need to worry.”
Worries aside, I strolled out to the side of the highway, flashed my headlight
and started waving my arms for help. I had reached a point where the happenings of the day had so much overwhelmed by my sense of outrageousness, that I no longer had hesitations about potential consequences. Going out to the side of the highway in the Eastern Sierras was one of the purest moment of surrender and self-trust in my life.
It
took half an hour before a car finally pulled over. As the window
slowly rolled down, I took a deep breath and accepted my fate: An elderly couple in a fancy car had come to my
rescue and they had AAA. The lady had a laugh that resembled my
sweet great Aunt and thus I decided they were completely trustworthy.
In no time, a stud muffin in a pick-up truck pulled off the road and
opened the car in seconds. Carole and Jerry inquired about where I
would be staying that night. Awkwardly, I tried to explain about my
next plan to sleep in a gas-station parking lot. They would have
none of it, and invited me to stay with them in their home just north
in Mammoth Lakes.
I went
to bed that night in a luxury vacation home surrounded by pines. Their guest room was so pristine I felt the need to tiptoe around the immaculate
vacuum tacks in the carpet and had trouble pulling out the sheets
from the professionally tucked bed. I slept soundly, smirking at the Universe. Early the next morning,
they offered me coffee with whipped cream while the pair made peach jam. Their kitchen was warm and cozy, designed like a country log cabin. Vintage skis were mounted above the stone fire place and family vacation photos lined the bookshelves. I felt calm and relieved, and started to feel the enthusiasm build for day two. Jerry, Carol and I chatted over our coffee and they soon learned I was Jewish and from
Jerusalem. Jerry began to get giddy and didn't hesitate
before sitting down to introduce me to the Book of Daniel. He told me all
about the return of Jesus as the messiah and how almost all the
Christians of the world had gotten confused thinking he was
God. This man was missionizing me and given the circumstances, I was
totally at his mercy. Of course I started to get nervous and began
an internal dialogue with Hashem asking why He was continuing to play
these nasty jokes on me. I was spared by Carole who saw my discomfort as her
husband preached. Graciously, I took my leave, noting their address
to send a thank you note.
Finally I made my turn west onto Highway 120, and opened up another conversation with God. Nice. I began, "Saved" by Jehovah's Witness'. You seem to have a sense of humor awfully similar to my mother's.